E-HYPERBOLIC

CROCHET 

WORKSHOP

INSTRUCTIONS

Crochet Basics

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Making a slip knot: 

https://vimeo.com/showcase/4596684/video/425737532 

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Making a slip knot (Pretzel method): https://vimeo.com/showcase/4596684/video/440191123

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Holding yarn:

https://vimeo.com/showcase/4596684/video/440132621 

How to crochet a chain stitch: https://vimeo.com/showcase/4596684/video/425737849 

Hyperbolic Crochet

https://vimeo.com/showcase/4596684/video/425738293 

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Wiring in the electronics 

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For this workshop, you will be given a pre-wired circuit. 

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If you are interested in making your own circuit from scratch,

you will need:

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1 x 5mm LED

2 x pieces of (about 10 - 15cm) insulated wires, in two different colours

1 x lipo solar charger

1 x 3.7V lipo battery

1 x 3 V solar panel

1 x mini on/off push-button switch

Once you completed your hyperbolic crochet is to weave the wire through the holes. 

[1b] Stretch the legs of your LED so they are horizontal.

[1c] Position the LED on your crochet form.

[1d]  It should fit snugly in one of the spaces between the stitches.

[1e] Beginning with one end, weave wire through the spaces between the stitches, keeping the LED in place as do this.

[1f] Weave the other end in the opposite direction.

[2a] Take your time to work out how you want to weave the two ends into the crochet. They can start off in opposite directions and then come together at the other end. 

[2c] Connect the two ends of the wire to the correct terminals using a screwdriver.

[2e] Plug in the Lipo battery into the JST socket (the small white socket on your solar charger).

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[2f] The LED should light up automatically. If it doesn’t or the light is dim, charge your battery by placing the connected solar panel in the sun.

[3_circuit_wire] Use wire strippers or plyers to peel back the plastic coating of the insulated wire, exposing the stranded metal cores at both ends of the wires. 

[3_circuit_led] You will solder the metal legs of the LED to the exposed metal wires. The longer leg is the positive terminal of the LED, the shorter leg is the negative terminal. It is conventional to have red (or a lighter colour) stand in for positive, and black (or darker colour) stand in for the negative.

[3_circuit led solder] You can first trim the ends of the LED legs before connecting them to the wire (so that they are not so long), but remember which end is positive and which is negative. Wrap the metal strands of the wire around the LED leg and apply solder. Repeat for the other leg. 

[3_circuit heatshrink] A good soldered joint is usually solid and by adding a heat shrink around the joint provides added insulation and security. Use a heat shrink tubing slightly larger than your wire. Put in place then use a heat gun to shrink it around the joint.

[3_circuit wire ends] Use wire strippers or plyers to peel back the plastic coating of the insulated wires at the other ends, exposing 3 to 4 mm of the stranded metal cores. Tin the ends of the wires (meaning apply some solder to the metal) to bring the metal wire strands together. This will make it easier to screw into the solar charger.  

[4_solar panel] Supplied with the workshop materials is a 3V solar panel. Strip the plastic coating of both ends of the wire, and using the same two colours to solder wires to the positive and negative terminals on the back of the panels. 

[4_solar panel back] For added security and insulation, cover your solder joints with a length of electric tape. 

4_solar charger] Insert the other ends into the corresponding terminals of the solar charger.  Tighten the screws to secure.

Completion!

​Explore the diversity of hyperbolic crochet stitches together with ‘sewable’ electronics components and sustainable materials such as hemp or recycled cotton threads to create a wide range of hyperbolic creatures such as coral or fungi. Engage your community and friends to create a unique showcase of thought-provoking fusion of science, conservation, mathematics, and art.